Seasonal guide

Winterize your RV before freeze damage

Protect PEX, traps, and the water heater before freeze damage turns into spring archaeology. Blow-out vs antifreeze, bypass position, and when mobile winterize makes sense on the corridor.

Active corridor: Montana · Wyoming · Idaho · Washington — case-by-case beyond.

Field notes

One night below freezing with water still in the lines can split a pipe, crack a water heater tank, or ruin a pump. Here is the full procedure in both directions — winterize for storage, then de-winterize when you roll again. Pair with spring de-winterization and plumbing troubleshooting if something already leaked.

Who this is for

Right place if you

Store the coach where nights drop below freezing. Want a clear blow-out vs antifreeze decision. Need bypass and water-heater drain done without toxic antifreeze mistakes. Prefer a mobile winterize on the MT · WY · ID · WA corridor.

Maybe not yet if

You only need a one-night freeze watch with heat and circulating water — that is trip strategy, not full winterization. You already have active freeze breaks — book plumbing repair first, then winterize what remains.

Compressed air vs RV antifreeze

Two valid methods — do not half-do either one. Many shops combine a careful blow-out with antifreeze in traps and hard-to-drain pockets.

Compressed air

Blow each line at 30–40 PSI max (too high damages fixtures and seals) until no water sputters from every faucet hot and cold, plus toilet and outside shower. Still drain the water heater via the plug/anode — never leave it full.

RV antifreeze

Use a pump converter kit or siphon hose to pull non-toxic propylene glycol RV antifreeze through the pump. Run every faucet hot and cold until pink appears, then flush the toilet and outside shower the same way. Never push antifreeze through the water heater tank — bypass it and drain the tank separately.

Hard rule

Never use automotive antifreeze (ethylene glycol) in an RV potable system — it is toxic. Only use antifreeze explicitly labeled non-toxic / RV-safe. Missing even one low-point drain or one faucet is enough to crack a line by spring.

Bypass honesty

Confirm bypass valve position for your exact heater. Wrong position sends antifreeze into the tank or leaves the tank full of water. When unsure, Prefer Text a photo of the valves before you pump.

Winterizing procedure

Owner checklist
  • Drain the fresh water tank, gray tank, and black tank completely first
  • Open the low-point drains and let the lines gravity-drain
  • Bypass the water heater — never push antifreeze through the tank; drain it via the drain plug/anode
  • Compressed air method: blow out each line at 30–40 PSI max until no more water sputters from each faucet, hot and cold, plus the toilet and outside shower
  • Antifreeze method: use a water pump converter kit or siphon hose to pull RV-specific (non-toxic, propylene glycol) antifreeze through the pump; run every faucet hot and cold until pink fluid appears, then flush the toilet and outside shower until pink appears there too
  • Pour a small amount of RV antifreeze into each P-trap and into the toilet bowl if using the blow-out-only method
  • Close low-point drains when the chosen method is complete; label the coach “winterized” with the date and method

De-winterizing in the spring

Do not assume the coach is drinkable until you have checked bypass, flushed pink, and sanitized.

  1. Close all low-point drains and re-install the water heater drain plug/anode (torqued, not overtightened).
  2. Take the water heater out of bypass mode.
  3. Sanitize the fresh water system with a diluted bleach solution (roughly 1/4 cup bleach per 15 gallons of tank capacity), fill, let sit several hours, then flush thoroughly before drinking.
  4. Run every faucet hot and cold until antifreeze smell and color are gone; flush the toilet and outside shower the same way.
  5. Pressure-test for winter cracks you could not see while dry — look under sinks, at low points, and around the pump.

Beyond the water system

Batteries

Store lithium around 50–60% SoC; store lead-acid/AGM fully charged on a maintainer. Details: solar & battery.

Tires

Cover against UV; move the rig periodically or use cradles/ramps to reduce flat-spotting over long storage.

Roof & seals

Inspect before storage — a small failed seal caught in fall is cheaper than a soaked ceiling in spring. See roof troubleshooting.

Mice & pests

Close gaps, remove food, and set traps. Chewed PEX and wiring show up as mysterious winter failures.

DIY vs book UMRT

Reasonable DIY

Owners with a compressor, the correct antifreeze, and a known bypass layout. Photograph valve positions before and after.

Book us when

You want full winterize or de-winterize done right the first time with a real inspection along the way. Seasonal winterize $175 · trip-prep $225 when quoted for your corridor stop (plus trip fee). We come to you in MT · WY · ID · WA.

FAQ

Is blow-out alone enough?

Often for mild climates if every line and trap is truly empty. Corridor winters and complex plumbing usually need antifreeze in traps and hard pockets.

Can I leave the water heater full if I heat the bay?

Do not gamble. Drain it. Bypass mistakes and cold snaps split tanks.

Pink still in the lines after spring flush?

Keep flushing; sanitize after color and smell are gone. Do not drink until the system is clean.

What is trip-prep vs winterize?

Trip-prep is a broader go-to-travel check (systems, seals, safety). Winterize is the freeze-protection water job. Ask which quote you need.

Related: Preventive & seasonal · Spring de-winterization · Plumbing service · Plumbing troubleshooting · Fresh-water pump · Troubleshoot hub

Pricing teaser

Trip fee $75 within 30 miles, then $1.50/mi each way. Labor ~$150/hr (1-hour minimum, billed in 30-minute increments). Diagnostic $175 applied toward repair if you proceed. Seasonal winterize $175 · trip-prep $225 when quoted for your corridor stop.

Credentials (text): Victron Professional Certified Installer · weBoost Authorized Installer · Peplink Certified Associate · Dometic Professional Certified. Starlink = installs only (not a certified partner title).

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